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Boost baking confidence. (MONKEY BREAD)

December 21, 2009

Before holiday baking kicks off, I see this recipe’s success as a beacon of good fortune in this year’s endeavors. One of those things everyone has eaten but me, monkey bread seems to be a popular type of treat people remember from grandmas or bakeries. I have no such memory but having heard of it so many times and after seeing this fine old recipe, I decided it was time to get acquainted. Not to mention it was snowy outside and what is more awesome than a fresh baked bread-something in all that wintry glitter. Plus all of the ingredients were on hand so, no one had to go trudging.

I might have mentioned before that I don’t love baking but once in a while, when distractions are few, I’ll flour up. This day I did not surprise myself by immediately adding too much water to the dough, followed by a great deal of swearing, also a part of my baking ritual. To remedy this problem, I added extra tablespoons of flour until the dough was just manageable. I was careful about the additions since the recipe did describe it as a sticky dough. Anyway, I floured recklessly while kneading and it was okay.

Kneading, traditionally done with one’s hands, is often replaced in recipes by food processors and/or standing mixers. Not having a piece of machinery should not discourage one from trying a recipe. Especially in the case of making doughs, there is always a way to to it without being plugged in. It usually involves a few more minutes of effort but it will always work, and sometimes the results will be even better since your hands get to witness all of the changes the dough will go through. A good example of this is making pasta. Pasta dough will always come out better by hand because you will know exactly when it goes from just a basic dough to actually silky and soft, with a faint sheen on it (this takes  about 15 minutes of real work). In a mixer you would never see this change happen and either stop too early or blow straight past this little miracle and overmix completely. For monkey bread, the dough only gets worked for about 5-10 minutes until it is smooth and cohesive but make sure you give it a good workout anyhow.

When making (yeasted) bread, kneading is important but the crucial thing is the rise. In my experience, recipes often underestimate the time it will take for the dough to truly double in size. So my big advice is…wait. Wait not until it is almost-maybe-double-but-definitely-bigger, no. Wait for it to be definitely doubled, alot bigger, puffy and alive looking. Sometimes it is only a matter of an extra ten minutes, but it might be an extra hour. There are so many factors that could cause your yeast to take more time than the yeast in the recipe. Just. Wait. It will make all the difference in the final product. Promise.

To make my monkey bread work I also had to rig a bundt pan. Since I don’t have one, the solution was a regular cake pan (10 inches) with a ceramic ramekin placed in the center. Any sort of round vessel than can stand the heat would work, a tin can, little clay pot, etc. just make sure you grease it along with the rest of the surface. Butter or some non-stick baking spray will do the job well.

With so much technical blah-blah, I almost don’t mention how awesome this stuff is. A wreath of bread that is made up of little breads! Each ball of dough personally dipped in cinnamon butter and rolled in brown sugar, then plopped into the pan. The pieces rise and bake together into a fragrant, caramelized work of art. As forgiving as it is delicious, if all of my opposable thumbs can bake it, you can too.

MONKEY BREAD

(adapted from America’s Best Lost Recipes)

1 stick + 2 tablespoons butter

1 cup milk

1/2 cup water

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1 package rapid rise (instant) yeast

3 1/4 cups flour + extra for kneading

2 teaspoons salt

1 cup light brown or raw turbinado sugar

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

  • Grease a bundt pan or something similar. Preheat your oven to 200 degrees F and turn it off when it comes to temp. This is the perfect environment for the dough to rise.
  • Start the dough by melting the 2 tablespoons of butter in a small pot.
  • Add the milk and water and heat gently to about 110 degrees F.
  • Place the warm milk mixture in a measuring cup and add the 1/4 cup granulated sugar and the yeast. Within a few minutes the yeast should bloom, making floury looking bubbles on the surface. (If it does not….start over with new yeast!!)
  • In a large bowl, mix the flour and the salt. Make a well in the center of the flour and pour in the liquid ingredients.
  • Stir until ingredients are incorporated and the mixture becomes heavy to stir. Stop.
  • Flour your hands and the workspace. Gather the dough and turn it out onto the workspace, kneading until a smooth ball forms (adding touches of flour as necessary), about 5-10 minutes.
  • Place the ball of dough into a greased bowl and lightly coat the top of the dough with non-stick spray. Wrap the bowl with plastic and place it in the 200 degree oven that has been turned off!!!
  • Allow to double in size, at least one hour.
  • While the dough is rising, melt remaining stick of butter in a small pot. Stir in cinnamon. Place brown (or raw) sugar in a shallow dish.
  • When the dough is ready, remove it from the oven and pat into an 8 inch square. Cut the square into quarters and each quarter into 16 pieces for a total of 64 small dough pieces.
  • Dip each piece in the cinnamon butter followed by a quick roll in the sugar and place in the prepared bundt. Stagger the coated balls somewhat evenly around the center of the pan in layers.
  • Cover the pan with plastic wrap and place it in the ’still turned off’ oven for a second rise, about one hour or until puffy and risen 1-2 inches above the rim of the pan (see photo above).
  • Remove pan from oven, and turn it up to 350 degrees F. Take the plastic wrap from the bread and bake until the top is deep brown and bubbling around the edges, 30-35 minutes.
  • When done, cool only 5 minutes in the pan or else it will stick. Turn it out onto a platter and enjoy. Wrap in plastic for overnight storage.

64 cinnamon-butter-sugar coated balls in a makeshift bundt pan.

Oven landslide….what, me worry? Those were the tastiest bits.

Oh yeah, read some of my golden baking rules here.

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High lights. (FOOD ABROAD)

December 7, 2009

After embarking on a trip to Europe, recounting stories of all the good friends, good news and good times will take too damn long. Instead, here are a handful of delicious highlights (in pictures).

PARIS:

A villainous cheese plate:

The cheese that looks like a flower is some incredible stuff called tête de moine. It is cut horizontally with a special apparatus that shaves a thin layer  from the top of the cheese. As it is sliced in a circular direction, the cheese curls around itself. Then it melts in your mouth.

An adventurous charcuterie:

The light pinkish sausage at the top is French andouille… that lovely pattern is created by pig intestines and stomach. A little goes a long way.

BELGIUM:

Beeeeeeeeer!:

I guess I ate some stuff during the days in Belgian, but the beer! The beer is special. In this photo is a golden, delicious Tongerlo. Also among my favorites were the Westmalle beers and the rare and fantastic Wechelse Tripel. Locals say not to drink more than three. Decent advice, I guess.

AMSTERDAM:

Applecake:

Never again will I accept the expression ‘as American as apple pie’. We need to simply give up and let the Dutch have this one. Here is a photo of Dutch apple pie from a cute little eatery called Winkel that specializes in the stuff. This inexplicable pie will have me chasing the dragon until I get to try it again. (Noordermarkt 43)

Sorry France, sorry Belgium:

And here we have the little corner shop where I innocently bought some fries. I thought I would walk around and eat them but they were so so so good, I had to sit down on the nearest bench to believe what was going on in that little paper cone. When I looked up, everyone around me was eating them, all in devout silence. I got spicy mayo as my saus but i heard that peanut sauce is also a popular choice. Later still, I discovered the real people’s choice is a mix of mayo AND peanut sauce. Must immerse in local culture. Must. (Voetboogstraat 31)

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Dear Sandoony,

November 24, 2009

1158 McDonald Ave, Brooklyn

First of all, thanks so much for always hosting a great party. We think you are the best banya deal in town and we totally appreciate the long tables reserved for us, the sweet little group discounts and the fresh towels always stocked! Is there a keener way to celebrate with a pile of friends than a leisurely sauna and soak, a recline on the balcony (skin steaming in the chilled air), an awesome snack? And then do it all over again!

To make the most of this experience, it’s mandatory to observe the regulars. They come prepared with snacks, beverages, flip flops, hair masks, etc. The spa-goers claim a spot, set up shop and spend a day lounging. In and out of hot rooms and pools, snapping each other with leafy branches (platza). They read and play cards, eat a few meals with plenty of fine drinks, beer and vodka among the favorites.

Though guests may bring their own, it is the amazing quality of the food in the banya’s restaurant that is such a fantastic surprise. With well-priced house specialties like smoked salmon, borscht, pickled vegetables (including chayote and lettuce), whole prawns, and garlicy potatoes, we are transformed from a group of temporarily de-stressed and exfoliated New Yorkers into a hearty, red-nosed, robe-clad clan of Eastern blockers. The menu is extensive, everyone eats, and it doesn’t take long to get used to the idea of dining in a tiled room alongside a pool in a bathing suit. In fact, relaxed comfort might make the food taste that much better.

Though it is not fancy, everything is served with great pride and flourish. Food shaped into flowers (Sandoony is the only place this is acceptable), served with extra lemon, bright herbs, two kinds of bread and heaps of butter. The fish is perfectly cured and the soups restorative, each plate a meal in itself. Even an order of tea is accompanied by lemon, honey, sugar, milk and these fabulously sweet sour cherries. It is honest, well-done and downright delicious. No one bats an eye when a bunch of girls eat cupcakes and sip vodka. They just want to know whose birthday it is…

It’s kind of a steamy dream. Thank you.

Love,

Ori

Photos by Jean Naté.

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Still life with peppers. (PAINTING)

November 20, 2009

Peppers. Acrylic on wood. 18 x 18 inches. ©ocosentino

(All varieties MG grew in our garden this summer.)

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Breakfast twice. (PINEAPPLE + STUFF)

November 17, 2009

Since returning from Europe, I have been waking up really early. It’s cool for me, different from my norm which always included working lots of nights and slumbering through lots of mornings. Now I am all about eating breakfast to get myself geared up for the day. Waking at 8am and eating something before 9 leaves me hungry again by 10:30 or 11am…so, I eat breakfast until it seems time for something more like lunch.

In my recent brekkie explorations, I took this picture for fun. When a few friends saw it in the camera they were full of questions. ‘It’s just breakfast’, I thought,  some of that sinful Fage Greek yogurt with pineapples, shredded (unsweetened) coconut, a drizzle of agave syrup and some chopped up lemon balm which is still growing in the yard. That damn yogurt is versatile, great with anything from fruit and nuts to cucumber and bulgur. I try to by a small container to control my consumption but I eat it so quickly that I just face facts and get a big one. And, by the way, I always buy full fat because the path of life wider than it is long. What?

I do believe eating yogurt regularly is great for your health, digestion, complexion, etc. but this day it was the gorgeous pineapple that stole the show, with the lemon balm making it super bright and fresh. The pineapple-herb combo was so interesting that I later made pineapple-parsley-lemon juice with what was left. It was excellent! I juiced some parsley leaves and lots of stems, about 1/3 cup total. Apparently parsley is one of those fantastical superfoods. It is full of vitamins A and C , plenty of minerals and provides a good supply of chlorophyll. Since it is quite concentrated, just an ounce of parsley juice is perfect mixed in with other juices. Its taste is faint but very fresh, maybe a good alternative for those who can’t take wheatgrass. Into the bright green juice, I juiced one peeled lemon and the rest of the fresh pineapple. Pineapple has all the vitamin C the Flintstones could ever offer, as well as minerals like chlorine and potassium with some extra beneficial enzymes. All that in a sweet, delicious, thirst-quenching beverage. The yield was just about a pint and it started my day off just about perfect.


Next time you go ‘juicing’ ask for a handful of parsley thrown in there. I have a juicer at home, the brand is Elite by Maxi Matic. A gift from some darling friends, it is several years old and still kicks! Look… My cute folding bike’s in the background. I call it Quickie.